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            呱呱,故乡的滋味
            时间:2019-06-28 浏览次数:

            走过的路决定着人生的阅历,而吃过的美食,温暖着我们的胃和心灵。我去过许多城市,品尝过很多地方美食,能勾起食欲和念想的只有兰州的牛肉面和天水的呱呱。

            甘肃天水是我的故乡,呱呱是天水的地方小吃,由荞麦制成,被誉为“秦州第一美食”。

            天水古称秦州。作为羲皇故里,是一个拥有悠久历史的地方,也是古代丝绸之路重要的节点。除了麦积山、南郭寺、伏羲庙等旅游胜地,最能代表天水风情的就是美食了。适宜的气候和优美的自然环境,不仅孕育了一代代天水儿女,同时还造就了这里得天独厚的美食。

            在天水,说起呱呱,就好像兰州人说起牛肉面,西安人说起羊肉泡馍一样,感到亲切和自豪。少年读书的时候,几个小伙伴,早上悄悄溜出校门,美美地吃上一碗呱呱,顿感幸福满足。如今身处异乡,但多年来,我养成一个习惯,回天水一定要吃一碗呱呱。无论是寒风骤起的严冬,还是烈日当头的盛夏,从未爽约。呱呱的魅力,可见一斑。

            天水呱呱历史悠久,据坊间流传,呱呱与西汉隗嚣有一段脍炙人口的故事。西汉末年,天下大乱,天水人隗嚣在秦陇一带拥兵自重。因“朝三暮四”,与刘秀和谈未果,发生激战。在兵败途中,被困天水数月,草断粮绝,全军上下只能以本地产的荞面糊充饥。隗嚣把稀面糊留给自己和将士们,锅底的锅巴盛给了随军的母亲。其母由于饥饿多日,顿觉其味甚佳,便问伙夫饭食的名称。伙夫慌乱,想到其形成过程,随嘴而出:“锅巴”,他母亲听成“呱呱”,呱呱就这样留传下来了。

            虽然,呱呱的来历只是一个传说,但说明呱呱流传久远,深受民间喜爱。时间在流逝,城市在变迁,一切都是匆匆过客,唯有美食在四季的轮回中,把灵魂植根在民间市井中,代代传递。

            呱呱好吃,难操作。呱呱的制作古法自然,工序很多,相当繁琐,耗时费力。

            首先磨浆,将荞麦珍子用传统的石碾磨浆,这样磨出的淀粉才可以保持荞麦风味纯正。其次,是过滤。加入温水浸泡搓洗,把稀释出来的淀粉面浆过滤除渣,经过多次换水,过滤掉淀粉中的杂质。再用大火烧沸一锅开水,把搅伴均匀的面浆添入开水,边添边快速搅动。搅拌的过程是一个硬功夫,不仅需要很好的臂力,也需要持久的耐心,还需要时刻掌握火候。最后再用文火熬,制成澄黄明亮又弹又软又糯的锅巴,放凉后即可食用。

            呱呱对调料的选择极严,芝麻酱要用熟热油来化。油亮鲜红,让许多人望而却步的辣椒,却正是呱呱的点睛之处。辣椒面须用天水甘谷产的上品,泼辣子的油要用驴油。这样的辣子油色泽红亮、辣而不燥、回味绵长。看起来辣,吃起来却不辣,有其独特的香味。

            经过几百年探索实践,先辈们制做出了风味独特的,由几十味材料组成的呱呱调料。荞麦粉本身并什么特别,但加上这些调料后,就马上妖娆诱惑起来,形成了味道醇厚,香辣绵软的独特风味。

            呱呱的吃法也比较独特,先将呱呱用手捏成小块。这便让外地人看来有些费解了,那手指缝里捏出来的东西,真的有那么好吃么?可祖祖辈辈就是这么吃的,也许正是这样的传统吃法,才最地道、最入味。

            家常美味,也是人生百味。 通过美食,可以使人们有滋有味地深入了解伏羲故里。

            在我的脑海中,只有最初的味道熟悉而持久,时时牵绊着记忆深处的味蕾。那是粮食的味道,水的味道,风的味道,阳光的味道,也是时间的味道,人情的味道。

            清晨的一缕阳光唤醒街巷,巷子深处秦腔声声、人影点点,一碗呱呱搭配一碗滚烫的杏仁茶,饱胃解馋,略有凉意的清晨立刻充满温情。羲皇故里的人们,在美味的浸润中,开始了新一天的工作、生活……(信息处  张敬源


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